Batik process

I first learned to batik from one of my favorite elementary school teachers, Madame Masseke. She taught an
after school class when I was in fifth grade. I didn't batik after that year until I was in college. And it wasn't
until last year (when I tried tie-dyeing) that I found the magic of fiber-reactive dyes. Using a dye like Rit,
which requires boiling to set the color, doesn't work well when you're using wax!

This is an outline of the batik process I use. It's very basic, doesn't require any fancy tools. I am no expert.
Paula Burch has a wonderful site http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/howtobatik.shtml that includes tons of
detailed information on fabrics, dyes and methods. If you plan to try batiking, I highly recommend reading
her tips and instructions!

Step 1: Draw your design
Use a washable marker to outline the design you plan to wax. The marker will
wash out during the process. Any area waxed will resist the dye.

Step 2: Melt the wax
I use a double boiler type method. I have a pan used only for wax (I let the wax
cool and harden in the pan between uses) that I set on a pan of boiling water.
Another recommended method uses an electric skillet.

Step 3: Paint the wax onto your fabric
You can use regular paint brushes, or a tjanting (special batik tool). I personally
prefer brushes, although it may be slower and messier. Be sure the wax is
soaking through the fabric. If it isn't, you may need to raise the temperature of
the wax.

Step 4: Mix the dye
Be sure you are using a dye that does not require boiling or heating to set the color. I use Jacquard Procion MX. This is a
fiber reactive dye that uses soda ash to set. I mix 1 tsp of dye to 1 cup of water. (This is more diluted than recommended
resulting in more subtle and muted colors.) I then mix the soda ash (1 Tbsp to 1cup dye) directly in the dye.

Step 5: Dye the fabric
I scrunch the fabric into a container of dye. The more you fold and mash the waxed design, the more crackling effect
you'll get. If you don't want any crackling, leave the fabric flat and use a squirt bottle to apply the dye.

Step 5: Waiting
It takes about 4-6 hours for the dye to set. I generally let it set overnight.

Step 6: Rinse
When rinsing the dye, use cool water so you're not melting any wax into your sink
drain. Although the dye should be done reacting, letting colors mix could still stain
or discolor your fabric.

Step 7: Boiling
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. I have several plastic containers I use just for
removing wax. With the fabric in a container, ladle boiling water over the wax. To
dispose of the waxy water, I line a strainer with scrap material and pour the water
through it. This traps the wax for reuse or trash. You do NOT want wax going
down the drain!

Step 8: Iron
I let the fabric line dry before ironing. You probably don't want to
use your "good" iron for this. . . Place the fabric between
newspaper (I put a layer inside the shirt as well) and iron on high
until all the wax is melted out of the fabric and into the paper.

Step 9: Wash
If your batik is meant to be worn or used, wash it several times in
cool water. To keep colors from bleeding, you'll want to use
synthrapol the first several washings. As long as you've gotten all
the wax out, you can dry it in the dryer on high. If your batik is
purely art, you may not want to wash it at all.